This is a Cabernet year in the Medoc. The appellations with high percentages
of Cabernet seemed to make the best wines; St. Estephe, Pauillac, and St. Julien.
We have focused our selection on these areas. With the 2000 vintage, we offered
almost 200 different chateaux, this year we were far more selective, only offering
about 25. We are still working on a few other chateaux, but we will not offer
them until we have guaranteed our purchases. 2002 is not a "fill your cellar"
type year; but rather a buy selectively and "fill in gaps" type year.
There are many very good values out there that will provide excellent drinking.
The Bordelais reduced prices by about 30% but the decrease in the value of
the dollar effectively wiped out the price reduction. I feel the areas that
are more evenly blended such as Margaux and Graves suffered because Merlot was
not at peak ripeness during harvest. I feel that the chateaux should have changed
their assemblage to use more Cabernet in the Grand Vin, saving the Merlot for
the 2nd wines, such as Lafite did. In late March, wine professionals travel
to Bordeaux to taste the previous years vintage. The object is to taste about
1000 wines in 3 days. Teeth and tongues are stained purple for days. The tasting
is rather difficult because the wines have been aged in oak for 3-4 months and
then just prior to tasting, they are blended for the final assemblage. All that
movement is tough on the wine, I am surprised that a lot of them showed so well.
Our selection of Right Banks is rather limited; this vintage we are offering
de Sales. It was easily
the 2nd best wine I had from Pomerol, only L'Evangile was better and not by
much. It had wonderful balance. I have always found de
Sales to make very good wines in difficult vintages and this year is no
exception. The reason why it was so good this year is that it has one of the
highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in Pomerol.
The only other Right Bank wine we are offering is Petrus. Sorry I do not have
any tasting notes on the 2002, nor has Parker or Wine Spectator reviewed it
yet, but I was overjoyed when I received a small allocation for the vintage.
I expect, as usual, this wine will be extremely well made and highly sought
after. This is your chance to actually purchase the wine at a reasonable price.
When the wine is released, I expect the price to be in the neighborhood of $1000
per bottle.
I had the opportunity to taste Phelan
Segur 3 different times during the En Premier tasting. I think it is the
steal of the vintage. Balance, complex fruit, and most important great price.
Thierry Gardiner spared no expense to make the best wine and it shows. Workers
took almost 3 weeks to pick the grapes in order to harvest at the optimum time.
This estate has been making excellent wines for the last 10 years luckily the
press has not hyped it and inflated the prices. An excellent wine for the money.
My visit to Mouton provided with the overall best array of wine. All the wines
were excellent; Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon, and D'Armailhac.
Mouton has power, grace, and elegance. Clerc Milon was similarly style, just
slightly less. The real show stopper was D'Armailhac.
It was absolutely wonderful. A perfect balance between the Mouton style and
elegance at most importantly at a price that is affordable. I have heard rumblings
that many other wine writers liked D'Armailhac
more than its more expensive siblings. I would definitely rate it in the 90-95
range, which is highly recommended since it can be purchased for less than $20
Lafite Rothschild
is marvelous. I cannot say any more. A perfect balance of fruit, tannin, and
acidity. I praise the Chateau for their decision to lower the amount of Merlot
in the final blend, less than 10%. Only 47% of the crop will be made into the
Grand Vin. This wine is powerful and will last for decades. The wine reminds
me of the 1988 vintage. Simply outstanding. It may not get the perfect 100 points
like the 2000 vintage, this is still in the 95-100 range and at 1/4 the price.
My biggest surprise during my week in Bordeaux was the tasting of Medoc wines.
I really did not expect much because no classified wines were there but what
I did find was a lot of very well made, balanced wines. I could easily recommend
about 10 of them especially due to their prices. Instead, I decided to focus
on the best wine of the tasting, Sociando
Mallet. It had great concentration, nice complex aromas, good structure
and tannin. It seemed to slightly rustic in the finish, but I liked it. It went
well in the wine.
Whenever I talk about these 2 wines, I keep thinking about something that Mde
Bize-Leroy said about 2 of her Burgundies; the Richebourg is a prim and proper
gentleman, the Romanee St. Vivant, she is a whore. We only purchased only 2
Graves in 2002. There should be no surprise that they are Haut
Brion and La Mission
Haut Brion. As usual, they are the leaders in the appellation. The Haut
Brion, the gentleman, is a huge wine, tons of fruit, deep expansive flavors.
The wine has incredible richness and ripeness. It is one of the top 5 wines
of the vintage. On a good day, it could be the best. So much power and elegance
in one wine should be illegal. Personally, I preferred the La
Mission slightly more. I wouldn't say it is better, just more to my style,
Then again, I usually always prefer La
Mission, it has a dark purple color. It is racy and complex. It is dense,
pure with lots of flavors. Either way, you will not go wrong.
Once again, We are offering only 2 wines in this appellation, Chateau
Margaux and Chateau
Giscours. I cannot say enough about Margaux,
it is probably the most consistent 1st growth over the last 20 years. It is
in top form once again; elegance, power, & finesse. Beautiful! Giscours
seems to be on a hot streak. After a few years of mediocre performance, the
last 4-5 years have seen a remarkable turnaround. I think it is on track to
become the top chateau after Palmer and Margaux.
Still reasonably priced.
The other Pauillac that I selected should come as no surprise, Year in and
year out they are the most consistent wines produced in the appellation; Lynch
Bages, Pichon Lalande,
Pichon Baron, Haut
Batailley, and Grand
Puy Lacoste and this year is no exception. Pichon
Lalande has an amazing 34% Merlot. For a Cabernet Year this is a real success,
they are the only chateau on the Medoc who really knows how to vinify Merlot.
The fruit is perfectly ripe. The wine is round and supple, fleshy, chewy, silky;
everything you expect from the Comtesse. Haut
Batailley was very well balanced, lots of body but the tannins to go with
it. It has dark color, loads of fruit and a lot os style, a certain "Je
ne sai qua". Lynch
Bages is massive and very focused. There is no room for elegance or finesse
here, just lots of fruit with a little of oak thrown in for good measure. This
wine goes right for the Jugular , it grabs hold and does not let go.
Grand Puy Lacoste has a long finish, massive tannins, excellent. Great Blueberry
and Black Currant nose; dark color, fresh aromas. It is dense, massive with
a long finish. Pichon Baron
has all the elements; oak, tannins, fruit, finish. The old proverb "Slow
and steady wines the race" fits here; Other wines may have single components,
but everything is here and in good proportion.
I probably could have included more St. Estephes, the quality was there, but
I felt the prices were out of balance. I have already spoke about Phelan
Segur. The other 2 chateaux that we are offering should not be surprising;
Montrose and Calon
Segur. In both cases, good, solid wines, beautiful balance, complexity,
and finish. I remember hearing somewhere that a terrible hailstorm tore through
Calon Segur and destroyed
a large percentage of the crop. I was glad to see that there was no rot in the
wine, It actually seemed to reduce the crop size and at the same time inccrease
the concentration. It is going to be a very good wine. Montrose
comes very close to be 1st Growth quality. Very concentrated with a little spice
and tobacco, good amount of alcohol for the long haul, very long finish.
The St.Julien area has the biggest selection this year. The foremost reason
is high quality of wine at excellent pricing. Lagrange
showed that the great wine produced in 2000 was not a fluke, they once again
made an excellent wine, very racy and powerful. Ducru
Beaucaillou, which was tasted at the Chateau along with the other wines
in the Borie stable, may be the best wine (non 1st Growth) of the vintage. Grace
and elegance, but with a powerful, tannic backbone. Leoville
Barton is once again in top form. I think it is very Californian in style,
lots of fruit but it has an enormously long finish. I reviewed my tasting notes,
and all I wrote was "Best wine of the Tasting". Beychevelle
is lighter in body as the other wines, but it is well put together, lighter
style does not mean less in quality. I think it will be an excellent drink especially
for those who can't wait so long. Talbot
and Gruaud Larose,
Even though they are no longer owned by the Cordier firm, will always be united
in my mind. I have to offer them this year, Neither really showed well, but
I know these Chateaux to well; The end product will be excellent. I think the
problem was that they were blended shortly prior to the tasting. All the basic
materials were there, but both were a little disjointed, they will both come
together when they settle down. The final wine is Leoville
Poyferre, it is always a good buy, this year is no exception. A few bottles
always seem to find their way into my cellar every year and this year will not
be an exception. I just like their style.