The bottle of Dunn's 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is a dense purple color with saturated staining of the tears and appeared positively viscous. A vibrant, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose displayed highly aromatic dark ripe plums, blackcurrant, sun-dried tomato and black-raspberry jam. A number of tasters noted a hint of reduction. Classic new oak characteristics of bitter cocoa, mocha, nutmeg & clove, espresso, menthol, rosemary and black pepper. A gravelly dark earthiness is barely detectable behind all of the dense fruit and oak; with 5 years careful cellaring these characteristics should taste more present. The tightly focused finish is very long, complex and in perfect balance with acidity, fruit ripeness and tannins. Additional notes: Almost every taster offered different descriptors leading me to believe that the wine is somewhat overwhelming. Many believed this wine to be a rogue placement ie. not a Dunn Vineyards wine. It is such a profound wine, with so much power, I’m sure that the group found its potential difficult to judge. It was described as monstrous similar in nature to Frankenstein’s creation – assessors may have been influenced by first impressions of structure and weight and found it difficult to dig deep and discover more – the wines complexity was hidden deep in the core and it needs time to emerge.
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"Dark, intense and concentrated, with a gamy, earthy streak running through the dried currant, sage and herbal notes. Balanced, with firm, chewy tannins. Best to cellar. Best from 2011 through 2020. 2,000 cases made. –JL" -Rated 87, Wine Spectator
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"I don’t know whether it’s me, the vintage character, or whether Randy Dunn and his son have intentionally softened their wines, but these 2004s are more opulent and up-front than previous renditions. Yet, they lack neither concentration nor richness. Those of us who have been cellaring Dunn’s wines for twenty years, waiting for them to reach maturity should be thrilled by this new development. The Howell Mountain is denser and richer with blacker fruits as well as more body. Both are full-bodied, powerful Cabernets very much in keeping with his style. However, the tannins are softer and the wines reveal surprisingly developed aromatics. The 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon should last for 20-25 years. It is a brilliant achievement." -Rated 94, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
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" Bright ruby. Urgent, high-pitched aromas of crushed cassis, minerals and licorice. Juicy, bright and pure, with sharply delineated flavors of cassis, bitter chocolate and licorice. Very lively wine with a firm underlying spine. Finishes with subtle building length and a fine dusting of tannins. Still quite tight and primary but not hard." -Rated 93, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
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"Elements of loamy soil, leather, dark chocolate and forest-floor spice sit to the side of extracted, ripe-currant fruit in both the aromas and flavors of this tannin-bound working, and, even if rich and very well filled, the wine is still one for hiding away in the cellar. It is tight and tough as young, mountain Cabernet is wont to be, yet its balance and sense of proportion are those that we look for in an ageworthy wine. Give it another seven or eight years and do not be surprised if it improves well beyond ten or fifteen." -Rated 90, Connoisseur's Guide to California Wines
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