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At the summit of the slope where the communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet converge is a cluster of vineyards comprised of five of the six greatest white wine microclimates of Burgundy. They all share the name of the greatest among them, Le Montrachet, which like Bātard-Montrachet, lies partly in Puligny and partly in Chassagne. Bienvenues-Bātard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet lie within Puligny; Criots-Bātard Montrachet lies within Chassagne. The collective surface area of these grands crus totals only 80 acres. The Bātard-Montrachet vineyard lies just below and parallel to Le Montrachet across the breadth of the slope. The largest of the five grands crus, its 29 acres are divided between Puligny, with 15, and Chassagne, with 14. The average annual production of 53,000 bottles (4,420 cases), while slightly more abundant for its surface area than that of Le Montrachet is still more than fifteen percent below the legal limit. Bātard-Montrachet is generally ranked third in stature among these grands crus; its ownership is extremely piecemeal, the largest holding totalling 4.7 acres. Legend has it that during the crusades, the son (Le Chevalier) of the Lord of Montrachet Castle left for the Holy Land, and in his absence his father began to frequent the Clos des Pucelles, where the young maidens (Les Demoiselles) of the area often gathered to amuse themselves. Temptation prevailed, and nine months later the old lord was again a father. His son, killed in battle, never returned. The baby was welcomed at the castle as heir with cries of "Bienvenu le Bātard!" ("Welcome to the Bastard!"), but the old lord, unable to bear his crying, protested with "A crio le Bātard!" ("The Bastard is crying!"). The vineyards were later named in their memory. Maison Louis Jadot carries out a traditional vinification in primarily new oak casks, to underscore and highlight the qualities of this great wine. Slightly fuller in body, with somewhat less finesse, fragrance and finish than Le Montrachet, Bātard-Montrachet is also a bit less accessible in its youth. With age, it shows a sumptuous richness and complex palette of luscious fruit flavors, with distinct toasty nuances in the bouquet and finish.
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